Here's other modifications that I couldn't classify in the other areas:


Unified Tow-Brake: As required by some state laws, and for safety - I wanted a braking system for my Toad (the Jeep). A "Toad" is a cute term for the vevhile that's "towed" behind our motorhome. I originally was looking at the "Brake Buddy", but didn't like that it wasn't a proportional braking system. It was either on or off. I learned about U.S. Gear's D-Celerator Unified Tow Brake. A friend had one installed and highly recommended it. I installed the braking system myself, saving about $300. It took about 9 hours to install, having never done one before. This braking system uses the power brakes of the towed vehicle by using it's own pump on the braking system. The command modules determine how much braking to apply, based on the deceleration of the motorhome. This provides for a complete power braking system proportional to how much is needed based on the motorhome. Sometimes it's just a little braking, sometimes it's a lot of braking. There's also a break-away, which will apply full power brakes on the Toad if it ever breaks away from the motorhome. So far, it's been great! I no longer fear heading down a steep hill, worried I'll smoke the brakes on the motorhome.


Trail Work Lights - I mounted a couple Hella Safari lights to Sun Performance Windshield light brackets. These lights are not meant to be used for driving, but to illuminate a work area. They can be rotated and pointed to where they're needed. They are useful for setting up camp, winching at night, and can provide light for the sides of the trail for night rides.


Driving Light Rock Guards - Although I didn't specifically want them, my stock TJ came with the factory fog lights. Driving Light GuardsEveryone has them, but they work okay. I happen to see at the local Jeep dealer that Mopar sells rock guards for these lights. To make the factory fog lights look different than everyone else's, I purchased a pair and installed them. It was a quick 5 minute installation. They look fairly good, will protect the lights from branches, and make them different than all the other factory fog lights out there.


QuickAir II - I wanted some type of on board air, but wasn't ready to install a York compressor. This is my ultimate goal. I mounted the Sun performance QuickAir II on the shelf made for this under the hood. Well, the shelf may not have been made for it, but it's the most popular spot for an electric air pump. This is the shelf on the driver's side under the power steering fluid box. I also have cruise control, which was easy to move out of the way. I hard mounted the QuickAir and plumbed it into the air tank within the front bumper.  I plumbed the output to a couple air manifolds, that split into 6 outputs. #1 goes to the air pressure switch, #2 to an air gauge mounted on the dash, #3 to a quick disconnect mounted under the headlight, #4 to a quick disconnect mounted above the rear bumper, and the other two are currently plugged. Eventually, one of these outputs will operate the planned ARB lockers.

Air Distribution Front air disconnect Click here for larger picture
Air distribution via manifolds
Front air disconnect 
Rear air disconnect

WARN Fender Flares -  I never liked the looks of the wheels sticking beyond the fender flares. After getting mud thrown on me a few times, I knew it was time for wider fender flares. I choose the 7" wide WARN fender flares. They were easy to install and look good. The 7" wide flares completely extend beyond the 12.5" tires. I'm concerned on how well they'll hold up in the trail when they get bumped.


Magnetic Club Decals - I didn't like the idea of having a the club decals permanently stuck to the side of the Jeep. I removed the set I stuck on and purchased a roll of magnetic material. Using a new set of decals, I attached them to the magnetic sheet, cut them out, and attached the magnetic decal to the Jeep. Now I can move them around, change to another club decal (depending on the run), or worry about a permanent mark being left on the Jeep. They stay on real good on the freeway and on the trails. I just remove them before a hard car wash spray.


Stock Wrangler Sport Decals Removed - Okay, it's real minor, but I didn't like all of the decals on the side of the Jeep when she came home from the dealer. There were FOUR rows of decals. I removed the "Sport" decal, the "Wrangler" decal, and the "4.0 liter" decals. This just left the basic "JEEP" lettering on each side. I think it gives Wyle E a more custom appearance. Now people need to guess what size engine I'm running :-)


Additional Hood Bumpers - On the older Willy's Jeeps, they have wooden blocks on the hood. These are used to protect the hood when it's opened all the way and rests on the windshield. This is how I prefer to open my hood, as it provides much more room and light while working in there. So I purchased another pair of the small, round rubber bumpers that are already on the hood, for use when the windshield is folded down. These cost $6.50 from the dealer. After identifying the proper locations, I drilled the holes and placed this second pair of bumpers on the hood. They are close to the front, and now protect everything when the hood is fully open, resting on the windshield. This should be a factory installed on all stock Wranglers.

Hood rubber bumbers Removed decals
Extra rubber bumpers on the hood
Removed Decals and the magnetic club decal

Tuffy Rear Storage Box - To provide a secure storage area for tools, I installed a Tuffy security box that fits behind the rear seat.  Besides being fairly secure, there's plenty of storage space.


Tuffy Glove Box - I run without a top fully on over 75% of the time. To help provide additional security, I installed a Tuffy security glove box. I also purchased a matching lock from Tuffy that matched the two locks in the rear box. All three locks now use the same key.


Fire Extinguisher - Everyone should carry a fire extinguisher. I carry a 1lb Halon extinguisher mounted on the floor next to the driver's seat. This makes it easily accessible, even if I'm upside down after rolling. The Halon extinguisher can put out almost any fire instantly, but it's not cheap. This will only be used for extreme emergencies or engine fires. The second extinguisher I carry is mounted on the rear roll bar. It's a 2lb class ABC extinguisher, which is good on paper, electrical, and wood. But too great on gas or engine fires. Good for when someone's catalytic converter starts the grass on fire. (I've seen it happen!)


Hook & Loop Straps - Although not a real modification, these 6" straps have come in real handy. Especially for strapping down the rear seatbelts when I don't have the top on (about 80% of the time). They stop the seatbelts from blowing in the wind and making noises. I also use them to strap down a flashlight to the roll bar strap the fire extinguisher to the roll bar. I also use them around the highlift jack to help stop it from rattling. I used to use them for holding up the sway bar after I disconnected it, but finally got permanent straps with a buckle for that purpose.


Soft Top Billet Connections - I like to remove the soft top frequently, sometimes no top, sometimes hard top, and sometimes safari top. I replaced the plastic connections on the soft top bars with a set of aluminum "billet" connectors from Sun performance. This appear to be high quality and will handle the frequent disconnections. Also, they have a quick disconnect rather than the stock torx screw.


Safari Top - Although the factory soft top works good as a bikini, or safari top, I still sometimes like the ease of removal and installation of Bestop's Safari top. This is like a Bikini top, but also covers the rear area.


Tornado Fuel Saver - I know, another fuel saving - additional power gimmick. That's what I thought when I read the review at Somehow, I was suckered into buying it. But it included a 30-day money back. Well... it works! After installing it in 1 minute, I felt an increase in power when starting off and between gear shifts. I haven't had it installed long enough, but my gas mileage jumped a gallon or more. A little pricey, but it seems to work.


Towing Light Connections - Since I flat-tow my Jeep on weekend RV trips, I wanted to permanently wire the lights on the Jeep as tow lights. Using magnetic towing lights was always bothersome to hook-up and remove. Although it's possible to buy all of the components separately, I choose to purchase a kit. The 2 diodes alone were almost $30, and the complete kit was only $45. It was a simple installation, cutting the brake light wires and connecting a diode inline with each rear light. Although only 4 wires are used (ground, taillights, left turn/brake, and right turn/brake) I connected a 6-wire plug next to the radiator. This allows me to run a 6-wire plug jumper cable between the motorhome and the Jeep.


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